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Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Food and Kolsch

I had meant to comment more longingly about my time in Cologne, perhaps embroidering my narrative with the meaning of the amazing cathedral. Instead, running low on time and internet, this small observation.

The kolsches of Cologne are noted for their balance, but nowhere is this virtue so evident as when put next to a plate of food. The balance is actually tripartite: soft, lightly sweet malt and delicate (or sometimes, as with Gaffel, obvious), herbal hopping on the first two hands. On the third, a lively crispness that comes from the mineral water, dry finish, effervescence, and piquant yeast character. With vinaigrette, the malt comes forward sweetly. Bratwurst, heavy and spicy, relies on invigorating freshness while sweeter pork finds spice in the hops.

You could do worse for an all-purpose food-beer than Kolsch.

2 comments:

Win said...

That description leaves me wanting to jump on a plane tonight. Cheers, Jeff!

Mike said...

You don't mention which pubs you visited in Cologne (other than Reissdorf, which is not near the best). How about it?

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